Travelling to Anguilla, the most northern of the Leeward Islands in the Eastern Caribbean, is quite the experience. After a nine-hour flight from London to Antigua, followed by a quick layover, we hop on a nine-seater plane for the final leg of our journey. But as we cruise over the Caribbean Sea and the jewel-like island comes into view, I quickly realise there’s no better to arrive.
Anguilla is best known for its pristine beaches. Meads Bay, located on the western side of the island, was voted the No. 3 best beach in the world for 2024, while Shoal Bay, on the northern shore, is consistently regarded as one of the world’s most beautiful stretches. With its white and pink-hued sands (some of the softest I’ve ever had the pleasure of sinking my toes into), it also happens to be the backdrop to our first stop of the trip.
Where to stay in Anguilla
Zemi Beach House
With its rooftop plunge pool and spectacular views, you can see why Paris Hilton spent part of her honeymoon in the Presidential Suite at Zemi Beach House – it’s the perfect spot for a secluded beach holiday.
The hotel spans across six acres but only has 76 rooms and suites, so every guest has the luxury of space. I stayed in a King Ocean Room, which boasted a magical view of Shoal Bay from its balcony.
A King Ocean Room at Zemi Beach House
I love a huge bathroom and with enough high-end toiletries to stock Space NK, a walk-in shower, double sinks and a little rubber duck perched on the edge of the freestanding bath, it certainly didn’t disappoint.
Our first evening started with a rum tasting in the Rhum Room. The Caribbean milk punch served in a bulbous test tube was a big hit, as was the Plantation rum, but we wisely stopped short of sampling the £520-a-shot-rum proudly displayed behind the bar.
The Rhum Room
For our first dinner, we headed to 20 Knots – breakfast is also served in this restaurant – and the setting couldn’t have been dreamier. You can dine with your feet in the sand while listening to the gentle lapping of the sea against the shore only meters away.
A stay at Zemi Beach House wouldn’t be complete without a visit to its 300-year-old authentic Thai house – the main building is an oasis of calm and houses the largest Hamman on the island. Be prepared, I requested a firm massage and at one point, the therapist climbed on my back. I’m sure I walked out an inch taller, and I slept like a baby that night.
Prices for a garden view king room with balcony at a Zemi Beach House start from around £550 + taxes per night. For more information, or to book, visit zemibeach.com.
CeBlue Villas
For the second half of our trip, we stayed in one of the gated Ce Blue villas perched majestically on Crocus Hill, the highest point on the island.
A villa with private pool at CeBlue
Our villa had three bedrooms on the upper floor with vaulted ceilings, and the most spectacular view from a bathtub you could possibly wish for. Downstairs, there were two more bedrooms and a games room.
The bifold doors in the main dining room and kitchen opened onto a large private deck with a pool and sunloungers that are perfect for taking in the dazzling sunset.
The fancy kitchen appliances, however, might go unused because there are catering services available. We opted for a continental breakfast and an evening BBQ, all deliciously supplied by the resident chef.
A bathtub with the most spectacular view
Prices for a 5-bedroom villa (sleeps 10 people) at CeBlue Anguilla start from around £7,750 + taxes per week. For more information, or to book, visit ceblueanguilla.com.
What to do and where to eat in Anguilla
Hire a jeep to explore the island
There is no public transport, so the best way to explore the island is by hiring a Moke, a small open-sided jeep (from around £70 for four hours and £110 for a full day, mokeanguilla.com).
We stopped at Wallblake House – the plantation house is soon to be transformed into a social history museum – and the nearby Catholic church, before driving to the Anguilla Arch in the West End, a spectacular cliff formation that deserves a spot on your Instagram feed.
Wallblake House
Caught out by a tropical downpour, we made a pit stop for lunch at Blanchards Beach Shack. The frozen tequila sunset margarita, appropriately served in a cactus cocktail glass, and sautéed curry shrimp served with rice and peas filled the gap till dinner.
After dinner at Veya – yes, I put on a few pounds while on the island – we headed to Elvis’ Beach Bar. The Anguillan racing boat turned beach bar is perfect for listening to music and chatting to locals while sipping that final rum cocktail of the evening.
Go on a kayaking tour
Most activities in Anguilla focus in and around the turquoise waters. We opted for a transparent kayaking experience (from around £75 for a two-hour kayaking tour from Crocus Bay to Little Bay, [email protected]).
Little Bay
We steamed ahead, dodging small yachts and motorboats, to the secluded Little Bay, where we stopped for snorkelling. I’m claustrophobic but with a few expert tips from our guide – a little spit rubbed on the lens of your goggles stops them steaming up – I got to enjoy the experience. A turtle and a couple of stingrays even popped up to say hello.
There’s also a spot here for cliff diving in Little Bay, but that was left to braver souls than me.
Back at Crocus Bay, we felt like we’d earned our lunch at Da’Vida Beach Club. Our waitress Sherry treated us like family and, after a bit of banter, doubled the shots in my already-potent frozen piña colada, which came with a dusting of nutmeg and a bright red cherry. I can barely remember the chicken burger and fries that followed, but nothing was left.
Crocus Bay
Catch the boat to Sandy Island
After a hearty breakfast at Tasty’s with a side order of Johnny cakes, a must-try doughnut-style local bread, we were set for another day on the ocean waves.
We caught the boat to Sandy Island (from around £32, [email protected]). Surrounded by the most intense turquoise sea, the small, deserted island has nothing but a beach bar and restaurant. I wandered around mesmerised by its sheer beauty – each year, it changes shape due to the forces of nature.
Sandy Island
Lunch called and needless to say, we enjoyed some of the freshest seafood – think lobster and grilled prawns – and frozen cocktails. Just be wary of the Matouk’s Calypso hot sauce, as it will blow your head off.
When to go to Anguilla
There is no denying Anguilla is a special place. Beautiful, laid-back and unspoilt, yet it still has every luxury you could possibly wish for. Bypassed by large cruise ships, and with no all-inclusive resorts or high-rise developments, you’ll never be overwhelmed by other tourists.
CeBlue
Because it takes a bit more effort to get here – there are no direct flights from the UK to Anguilla – it’s a relatively expensive holiday destination in peak season (December-May). However, if you travel in the off-season, and you don’t mind the odd tropical shower, you can save nearly 50%.
How to get to Anguilla
We flew from London Gatwick to Antigua with British Airways (from £498, britishairways.com) and from Antigua to Anguilla with TransAnguilla Airways (from around £150, transanguilla.com).
Alternatively, you can fly from London Heathrow to Saint Martin via Schiphol or Paris with KLM or Air France. Upon arrival, it’s a 60-second transfer by bus from the airport to the dock, where staff from Calypso Charters will guide visitors through security and customs onto a 12-person boat for the 25-minute trip across the water.